Scarlet Witch Hex Powers (Tutorial)

A week before going to MarsCon I decided to come up with something to look like Scarlet Witch’s hex powers (not really sure what to call this particular prop: Hex powers? Magic orbs? Glowing chaos magic?). I’m not sure why I always decide to do these things at the last minute, but there you go.

To my surprise, they turned out pretty well, and so I thought I’d share a tutorial with you all!


Photo of the Hex Powers in action! Photo by Scott Saniti.

What you’ll need:

  • 2 red battery-operated LED tea lights
  • 2 clear tea light candle casings
  • Red tulle/netting (about 1/3 yard)
  • 2 sheets of 8 1/2″ x 11″ red cellophane sheets
  • 1/2 yard of red gathered lace trim
  • Mod Podge
  • Red glitter
  • 2 ring blanks
  • Piece of 8 1/2″ x 11″ paper
  • Black Sharpie
  • Hot glue gun and hot glue sticks
  • Small paintbrush
  • Dressmaker pins
  • Sharp scissors

Most of the items I had on-hand because I hoard craft supplies, but I’d say all of these could be found at any craft supply store (with maybe the exception of the LED tea lights).

The first (and potentially optional) step is to add glitter to the LED tea lights. I did this so that they blended in more, and also to reflect some of the light from the LEDs. The LED lights I purchased were in a pack of 36 from Amazon. They’re really bright, and the color is good! They’re about the size of a US quarter, and run on two cell batteries (included).

Using a small paintbrush, paint a coat of Mod Podge onto the top of the LED tea light (avoiding getting any on the bulb part of the light, if possible). Sprinkle red glitter over the Mod Podge and shake off any excess. Allow the Mod Podge to dry and add another coat of Mod Podge and glitter if you think the tea lights need more coverage. After the Mod Podge is dry, coat the glitter with a layer of Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. I used the Extreme Glitter Mod Podge because I like the extra sparkle. Allow the Mod Podge to dry.


The next step is to create a template for the tulle and cellophane. I basically just folded a piece of 8 1/2″ x 11″  paper into fourths and sketched out a spiky design, and then cut it out. This can look however you like, but the above photo is how mine looked.

I bought a pack of multicolored cellophane sheets from Amazon, but I only needed the two sheets of red cellophane for this project. Lay the red cellophane over a piece of white paper (it makes seeing what you’re doing a lot easier) and then lay the template over that. Use a black Sharpie to trace the template (it doesn’t need to be super accurate). Cut out the template and make sure to trim off any of the black lines from your tracing. Repeat the process for the second cellophane sheet.

Next step is to cut out tulle from your template. The tulle I used was glittery, but you can use regular tulle. I folded my tulle in half and used dressmaker pins to pin the template to the tulle, and then cut it out. Again, it doesn’t need to be perfect. Repeat the process again, and when you’re finished you should have four tulle “bursts.”

Add a small dot of hot glue to the center of one cellophane burst and then lay one tulle burst over the dot of glue, but slightly askew. Your goal is to sort of “stagger” the tulle and cellophane so that the spikes are not perfectly lined up. Once the glue sets, flip over the cellophane and tulle. Add another dot of hot glue and lay the other tulle burst over the dot of glue (again, slightly askew). Once the glue sets, you should have a cellophane burst sandwiched between two tulle bursts. Repeat this process for the other set.

For this part, you’ll need some sort of shallow, clear, plastic container that’s just a little bigger than the LED tea light. The ones I used were plastic “casings” from some tea candles I bought from Target (like these). I took out the candles, and then washed the plastic casings with soap and water to remove any wax residue.

On the bottom of the casing, add a dime-sized dab of hot glue in the center, then place the casing onto the center of the tulle and cellophane burst. You’ll basically be covering up the dab of hot glue from the previous step. Allow the glue to set.

Add a strip of hot glue around the base of the casing and then bunch the cellophane and tulle around it until the glue sets. This will adhere one layer of tulle and the layer of cellophane to the casing.


Add a couple dots of hot glue on the cellophane layer and press down the outer tulle layer and hold it in place until the glue sets. Rotate, and repeat the process until the outer tulle layer is tacked down to the cellophane layer.

The next step is to add red gathered lace trim along the bottom edge of the casing. The pattern of the lace is not important – but make sure it’s gathered lace and not flat lace. Add a line of hot glue along the bottom edge of the casing and gently lay the lace along the glue. Try not to press the lace down with your finger because the glue might seep through. Continue until the lace is glued all around the bottom edge (and overlap about 1/2″) before trimming. The purpose of the lace is to keep the tulle and cellophane upright, and it also hides any flaws in the gluing process from the previous steps. It also looks really cool, I think.

Ring blanks are basically rings that have a flat metal piece attached to the top where a stone or other object can be glued to create jewelry. For this, the shape of the metal piece isn’t important, so use whatever kind of ring blanks you want. I used these.

Add a glob of hot glue to the flat metal piece and press it into the center of the underside of your casing. Hold it in place until the glue sets.


Unscrew the top off of the LED tea light and remove the two batteries. Because you’ll be attaching the bottom piece to your casing with hot glue, it’s a good idea to remove the batteries beforehand so there’s no chance of the batteries exploding. (Safety first!)

Add hot glue to the underside of the bottom piece of the LED tea light and press it into the inside center of the casing. Allow the glue to set, and repeat for the second casing. Once the glue is set and cooled, the batteries can be inserted and the top can be screwed back on.

You now have hex powers! Having the LED tea light inside a casing allows you to turn the lights on and off, and also replace the batteries when necessary. Because the hex powers are on rings, you can wear them and move your hands however you like (go crazy and wave your hands around!) and it looks super cool.


Star Wars Day @ Science Museum of MN

Each year, the Science Museum of Minnesota holds a Star Wars Day, and it’s always a huge hit with families! The 501st Legion and Rebel Legion make appearances, and since I’m not yet a member of the 501st Legion, I volunteered as a handler. Specifically, I was a handler for Chewbacca, my fellow costumer Paul’s newest costume. It was definitely a learning experience for both of us, but it was really fun! I have never seen kids get so excited over a costume. It was like walking around with a celebrity.

If I get 501st approval this year, then next year I get to be part of the troop for this event!


Entire group, including non-costumed volunteers.


501st Legion and Rebel Legion.


501st Legion.


Rebel Legion.


I’m usually the Hux to his Kylo, but on Star Wars Day I was keeping Paul from accidentally trampling little ones and getting knocked over by over-excited people.

Kara-O-Con 3

After the Costumers for a Cause Launch Party, I switched costumes and headed to Grumpy’s for Kara-O-Con 3. I had a fantastic time hanging out with friends and singing karaoke to Radiohead’s “Creep.”


I killed my dad. Whoops. Photo by Kira Pontiff.

Rosemary Catherine Bell

Photo by Rosemary Catherine Bell. Photobomb by Phil, Matt, and Paul (or Gilligan, Skipper, and Riker).


Ack! Photo by Lindsey Rae. Costumers: Kris Heding and Phil Glover.


My reaction when asked to “make a Kylo Ren face.” Seems apt? Photo by Lindsey Rae.


Costumers for a Cause Launch Party

Costumers for a Cause is a non-profit group that includes several costuming groups from the Twin Cities area: The Minnesota Force, Minnesota Superheroes United, and The Royal Sisterhood. We’ve been doing events for over a year as part of CFAC, but with a brand new website (designed by yours truly), we wanted to get word out about our organization and have an official launch party. It was a huge success, and everyone had a wonderful time!


Photo by Alex Hall. Costumers: Paul Haga, Kris Heding, and Jordan West.


Photo by Alex Hall. Costumers: Paul Haga, Kris Heding, and Jordan West.


Pretty, pretty princesses. Photo by Alex Hall. Costumers: Paul Haga, Kris Heding, and Jordan West.


Sassy! Photo by Alex Hall. Costumers: Paul Haga, Kris Heding, and Jordan West.


Snoke’s Angels? Photo by Alex Hall. Costumers: Paul Haga, Kris Heding, and Jordan West.


The entire Minnesota Force crew! Photo by Supreme Images Photography. Costumers: Phil Glover, Nick Hickman, Blane Pierson, Paul Haga, Michael Tangen, John Whitt, Rick Rietow, James Douthitt, Erich Ludwig, Melissa Sowers, Erich Schwab, Jordan West, Alex Hall, Amanda Fineran, Kris Heding, Madeline Anderson, Katherine Hickman, Pari Elizabeth, and Trevor Bailey.


FOX 9 News Promo

On February 11th, I appeared with other members of Costumers for a Cause on FOX 9 News to promote the Costumers for a Cause Launch Party on Saturday, February 17th. It was my first time on television, and it was really fun! I didn’t have to speak, which is good. I also debuted my Kylo Ren costume, which was cool.

Here is the video of our promo:

This shot made me crack up when I watched it. I look so depressed!


And here are a bunch of photos! These were taken by Kelly Rietow.


During the broadcast with news anchor Leah Beno! Costumers: James Konicki, Erich Schwab, Kris Heding, Afton Kielsa, Rick Rietow, and Jonathan Palmer.


Another shot during the broadcast. Costumers: James Konicki, Erich Schwab, Kris Heding, Afton Kielsa, Rick Rietow, Jonathan Palmer, and Isabella Taylor.

Green Screen fun!


With news anchor Leah Beno and meteorologist Cody Matz. Costumers: Kris Heding, Afton Kielsa, Isabella Taylor, Erich Schwab, James Konicki, Jonathan Palmer, and Rick Rietow.

“In other news, I still have daddy issues.”


Uh, just forward the repair bills to the First Order. Hux will take care of it.



Kylo Ren Makeup Test

Last night I did a test run of my Fem!Kylo Ren makeup, including the scar. I decided to go with smoky eye makeup (using my Tarte Sex Kitten palette) and pretty much my usual day-to-day makeup for the rest. For the scar, I used Mehron’s Rigid Collodion to create the base. I did a few coats to make the scar a little deeper-looking. I used a pinkish/nude eyeshadow to make the scar look a bit pinker. Then, I used a medium brown eyeliner pencil and traced along the length of the scar, and then softly blended it to give the scar some depth and to stand out a little more.

I’m really happy with how it turned out! I had some fun taking photos, too.

Kylo Ren approves, except when it comes to porgs.

TFW your parents don’t understand you and don’t believe it’s not “just a phase.”

Well, at least Kylo Ren has an eight-pack. And is shredded.


Kylo Ren – Star Wars: The Last Jedi


Photo by Lindsey Rae.

Sometime in late December/early January, I had a dream that I made a really cool genderbend Kylo Ren costume (complete with an awesome scar). I laughed it off because I’m not really a Kylo Ren fan. But, then I couldn’t stop thinking about it and how much fun it would be to create, and so I decided to go for it. My goal was to create the costume pieces close enough to the ones used in the movie, but not go too crazy trying to make them screen accurate – mostly because my skill level wouldn’t allow me to be able to perfectly recreate everything. As long as people could recognize who I was trying to emulate, then that would be good enough for me.

So, let’s break down the costume pieces!

Undertunic: I bought a black long-sleeved tee shirt from Target and removed the sleeves to use one as a pattern. Then, I bought a bunch of black linen-like fabric and used a sort of pintucking technique on two large pieces of the fabric to create about 26 1″ rows on each sleeve to give a sort of pleated look, but not actually creating pleats. While I used the sleeve from the tee as a base, I had to make it a bit bigger since the tee is made from knit fabric (so, super stretchy) and the linen I used had no stretch at all. With a little bit of adjustments, I made a mock-up pattern from some scrap fabric and cut out the sleeves from the pintucked fabric. Then, I just sewed them in place of the old sleeves in the tee.


Vest: Using the Simplicity 1499 pattern as a base, I made a mock-up of the vest using an old bed sheet. I had to make quite a few adjustments: I had to make the front collar a bit higher, had to add some fabric to the underarm area, made the shoulders a bit pointier, created a whole new collar, and took in the sides a little bit. Once the mock-up was complete, I cut out the pieces from the same linen-like fabric I used for the undertunic, and then made a lining from black cotton fabric. The basic construction didn’t take too long, but then I wanted to create a quilted grid pattern. That part took quite a while, but I think it turned out well.


Cape: I bought this really cool stretchy black fabric that has sort of a wet look to it, so it’s somewhere between looking kind of metallic and also kind of like leather. I used Simplicity 8201 as the base for the cape (just the two back panels, really) and made a mock-up using an old bed sheet for the front two panels. Then, I sewed in woven cotton laces at the shoulders to create “opera straps” to tie behind my back to keep the cape on my shoulders.



Leggings: I bought faux leather leggings from Torrid.

Belt: I bought a stretch corset belt from Torrid and have used that a few times, but I’ve commissioned a proper Kylo Ren belt from my friend Paul at PHProps and I’ll be wearing that once I receive it.

Boots: I bought some cool boots off of eBay that have multiple straps. They’re awesome, and I plan on wearing them outside of my Kylo costume for sure!

Gloves: I used my black leather gloves from my General Hux costume.

Wig: I bought the “Jane” wig from Arda Wigs in Black. It’s such a cute wig that I kind of want to wear it all the time.

Lightsaber: I went with the Black Series Force FX Kylo Ren lightsaber. I ordered handmade blade covers from KORSabercovers, but they arrived after the above photo was taken. They are REALLY awesome!

Makeup & Scar: For my makeup, I did a smoky eye using my Tarte Sex Kitten palette. The rest of my makeup was pretty much my normal daily makeup. For the scar, I used Mehron’s Rigid Collodion to create the base. I did a few coats of it. Then, I used a pinkish/nude eyeshadow to make the scar look a little pinker, and then used a medium brown lipliner pencil (softly blended) to add depth to the scar.

I have to say I am extremely happy with how this costume turned out, and I think the undertunic and vest are my best work so far.